Some may find it odd, but I have done some rather extensive eyeballing of museum pieces, and languished over hundreds of closeup pics in books,and have assembled my own patterns from that research. They may not be 10,000% correct, but they have been accepted by many a "thread counter". I use a medium weight navy wool (100%) flannel, and true cotton thread, the only farb part is the method of button holes and some of the stitching. I have had to make several in a short amount of time, and hand stitched button holes are out of the question. Also, for comfort sake, I left them unlined. I figured if anyone asked, "we ripped the lining out, cause it's too damn hot".
Trousers on the other hand, I used a sutler bought pattern. I could not get enough detailed pics to assemble a pattern for that. Besides, trousers were sort of generic in a sense anyway. But I did use the wool flannel for them as well. However, that material tends to be rather light for the strains of trouser life. Next time I bust out the old Singer, I am going to use a slightly heavier navy blue wool.
By the way, the wool is the same used for the NYPD dress tunics. My supplier is out of Bridgeport, CT. A couple of older gents who maintain one of the last really good mill stores. Not your usual "Jo Ann Fabrics". There is no dried weed displays or kiddie craft crap there.
The name of the place is Davidsons Fabrics. They are very traditional. I doubt they have a website, or anything of the nature. The cash registers are the old manual ones, so I would venture to guess they don't have an email either.
I have tried to get them to add sky blue kersey to thier inventory, but they have yet to yeild to my wishes. I will keep trying.
Have a good Holiday weekend,